草仔粿（客家菜包）做法 How to Make Caozaiguo

◆ 草仔粿／菜包　

波斯菊開滿了田野　
春天也將悄然來臨　
採些野生的月桃葉　
自製菜包來過清明　

對臺灣的客家族群與部分河洛（閩南）族群來說，傳統上，當提到「菜包」二字，指的並不是包菜的麵食包子，而是這種類似包餡麻糬的小吃。由於外型很像古時候裝豬仔去市場賣的竹編籠子，所以客家人又稱之為「豬籠粄」。「菜包」外皮的口味有很多種，除了最常見的用艾草或鼠麴草做的綠色外皮，還有番薯口味的黃色外皮，以及原味的白色外皮等。常見的內餡則有鹹的菜脯米（蘿蔔絲）或高麗菜，以及甜的紅豆餡等。我們這次介紹的是最常見的包菜脯米的艾草口味菜包，客家人又稱之為「艾粄」菜包，也就是部分河洛人說的「草仔粿」。不過，客家菜包的外皮上方通常會捏出一道立起來的背瘠，河洛人的草仔粿則較少這麼做。

在古早時代，艾草或鼠麴草做的綠皮菜包（草仔粿），原是漢人於清明祭祖時準備的傳統食物。然而，時至今日，由於其獨特的香味與口感，已成為一年四季皆廣受歡迎的美食小吃。微甜的外皮，溫熱時軟嫩，放涼後 Q 彈，內餡搭配炒得鹹香的肉燥、蝦米、香菇，以及脆口的菜脯米，混在一起一口咬下，實是絕妙的天作之合。想隨時隨地吃到香噴噴的菜包嗎？現在就跟著我們的食譜來自己做吧。（文末附影片）

◆ Caozaiguo　

Cosmos flowers have bloomed in the fields.　
Spring will come before you know it.　
Let's gather some shell ginger leaves.　
And prepare caozaiguo for tomb-sweeping.　

Taiwanese caozaiguo's skin is made of sticky rice and the leaves of mugwort or cudweed. There are various kinds of fillings, such as savoury radish strips or cabbage, and sweet azuki (red) bean paste. Here, we show you how to make the mugwort-flavoured skin caozaiguo with the filling made from savoury radish strips, which is the most common kind of caozaiguo in Taiwan.

Originally, caozaiguo was meant to be used to worship ancestors during tomb-sweeping for Han people. Nowadays, due to its unique smell, flavour, and texture, it has long become a popular gourmet snack which many people desire anytime, anywhere. Now, you can make it just by following our tutorial and recipe. (See video tutorial at the end.)


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材 料（Ingredients）：

圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

步 驟（Steps）：

(1)

洗圓糯米兩次，每次洗的時間不能太久。用清水泡米三小時。

Wash the round glutinous rice twice. Don't wash for too long. And soak it for 3 hours.

(2)

用濾網把泡米的水瀝掉。把米放入調理機，加入 500 毫升的水，打至少一分鐘。

Drain the rice with a sieve. Leave it in a food processor. Add 500ml of water. Blend them into a smooth liquid for at least 1 minute.

專門用來過濾製作粿粹的棉布袋又稱為「粿袋」。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(3)

用合計至少五公斤的重物壓在粿袋上面，壓三小時。（每半小時翻面一次，能壓得較乾。壓好後，若當天沒拿來做菜包，要冷藏保存哦。）

Press the bag for 3 hours with heavy objects weighing at least 5kg in total. (Flip over the bag every 30 minutes to help it become drier. Afterwards, if it's not going to be used on the same day, don't forget to leave it in a fridge.)

可在下方搭配使用鐵架與裝水的容器。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(4)

把三朵中型乾香菇（約十公克）洗淨，泡水三十分鐘。（可在香菇上方壓一個重物，以避免香菇浮在水上。）泡好後瀝乾，切除蒂頭，切小片備用。

Wash 3 medium-sized dried shiitake mushrooms (about 10g) and soak them for 30 minutes. (You can put a heavy object on top of them to prevent them from floating.) Drain them, remove the stalks, shred them, and set them aside afterwards.

可在泡香菇的碗裡再疊加一個碗。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(5)

把乾蘿蔔絲洗淨，泡水十五分鐘。泡好後瀝乾，擠乾，去除雜物，切小段備用。

Wash the dried radish strips and soak them for 15 minutes. Drain them, squeeze the liquid out, remove bad things, cut them into shorter strips, and set them aside afterwards.

乾蘿蔔絲（菜脯米）可在傳統市場或老街雜糧行找到。切成小段之後再拿來炒，會比較香。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(6)

把蝦米洗淨，泡水十分鐘。泡好後瀝乾備用。

Wash the dried sea shrimps and soak them for 10 minutes. Drain them and set them aside afterwards.

通常在老街雜糧行買到的蝦米，比大賣場賣的品質好很多，記得要挑沒有添加人工色素的來用。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(7)

加食用油入炒鍋，開中火。分別依序加入香菇、蝦米、豬絞肉、紅蔥醬、蘿蔔絲。（每一項食材炒約一兩分鐘後，先在鍋中央挪出空間‵，再加下一項食材。）

Add the cooking oil into a frying pan over medium heat. Add the shredded mushrooms, shrimps, pork mince, shallot sauce, and radish strips into the pan respectively. (Stir-fry the former ingredient for 1 or 2 minutes, and make room in the centre of the pan for the next ingredient before you add the next ingredient.)

把絞肉炒到肉色變白後，在鍋中央挪出空間，再加入紅蔥醬。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(8)

蘿蔔絲炒乾後（約一兩分鐘後），分別依序加入砂糖、白胡椒粉、臺式醬油。醬油一加下去要立刻攪拌。等醬油拌勻後，即可起鍋備用。

After the radish has dried (1 or 2 minutes later), add the fine sugar, white pepper powder, and Taiwanese soya sauce respectively. Stir them immediately after adding the soya sauce. After the soya sauce has been stirred evenly, set them aside.

炒好的內餡（配料）。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(9)

把已壓乾的粿粹從棉布袋中倒出來，成小塊狀。將合計約三十至三十五公克的小塊粿粹放入沸水，煮成粿母。用手將其餘粿粹捏碎後，加入粿母、砂糖、食用艾草粉，一起揉成光滑的米糰。

Take out the dried residue of the rice liquid, and press it into smaller lumps. Add about 30-35g of the lumps into boiling water. Crush the rest of the lumps with your hands. Add the boiled ones, fine sugar, and edible mugwort powder to the crushed lumps respectively, and knead them into a smooth dough.

用雙手把壓乾的粿粹給捏碎。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

粿母可以分批加入，若是感覺可以成糰，粿母就不用再放了，否則太黏反而不好揉。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

用類似洗衣服的方式揉米糰。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(10)

將米糰平分成六份（每份約 75 到 80 公克）。將每一份米糰捏成碗狀，放入約 50 公克的餡料，以虎口收攏，直到覆蓋內餡為止。收口務必密實捏合。

Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces (about 75-80g each). Pinch each one of them into the shape of a bowl. Add about 50g of the fillings on each one of them. Pull the dough between your thumb and index finger until the fillings are fully covered. The opening must be closely pinched together.

捏成碗狀。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

以虎口收攏。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

將收口捏合。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(11)

將包好的菜包滾圓，捏成想要的形狀，在底部塗些食用油，放在洗淨剪好的月桃葉（也可用一般粽葉或饅頭紙）上。

Round them, and pinch them into the shape you like. Apply some cooking oil on their bottoms. Leave them onto a piece of washed shell ginger leaf (or baking paper).

可依個人喜好選擇是否要捏出一道立起來的背瘠。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

蒸籠若有兩層，可先在一層把菜包排成倒三角形，而在另一層則排成正三角形，如此則可將所有菜包錯開，使其充分蒸熟。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(12)

放入蒸籠，以小火蒸。（每隔五分鐘開蓋一次洩壓，以維持菜包的形狀。）共蒸約三十分鐘即可。

Steam them over low heat for 30 minutes in total. (Take the lid off for a while every 5 minutes to release the pressure.) Then, voila!

剛蒸好的菜包（草仔粿）。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

放涼後的菜包（草仔粿）。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

旁白配樂版影片（客語發音，請開字幕） Video Tutorial With Talking & Music:

原音重現版影片 Video Tutorial Without Talking or Music (ASMR):

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附 註（Footnotes）：

(1)

外面買的糯米粉，若是買到較不好的，可能會有霉味，所以我們用純糯米來製作，健康、美味又安心。

The caozaiguo is easier to taste bad if it is made from glutinous rice flour. Since the good-quality glutinous rice flour is quite difficult to find, we recommend making caozaiguo from real glutinous rice.

(2)

乾蘿蔔絲裡面很可能會有一些髒東西，或是較老的皮，最好一小把一小把檢查、挑出來。

There may be some bad things or old skin inside the dried radish strips. Better check carefully and remove them.

(3)

炒配料的時候，把各項食材分開來下去煸香，較可以煸出香味。

While preparing the fillings, stir-fry each ingredient separately, so that the fillings can have much more flavour.

(4)

紅蔥醬（香蔥油）要晚一點放下去爆香，否則紅蔥可能會燒焦變苦。

Don't stir-fry the shallot sauce too early, or the shallot may be burnt and become bitter.

(5)

蘿蔔絲很會吸油，要最後再炒，不然一開始把油吸光了，就要倒更多的油炒別的配料。

Radish strips can absorb a lot of oil easily. So, stir-fry them at the end, or you'll need to pour a lot more oil for other ingredients.

(6)

如果找得到新鮮艾草，可將嫩葉拿來煮約十分鐘，擠乾水份後切碎加入，來取代艾草粉。

If fresh mugwort leaves are available, you can also boil them for 10 minutes, drain them and shred them. Then, use them to make the rice dough instead of using the mugwort powder.

艾草是常見的一種野草。圖片來源：cooking23s.blogspot.com

(7)

用全糯米做的菜包較軟，要用小火來蒸，最好別用電鍋，且過一段時間就要開蓋一次，才能維持它的形狀。如果喜歡較挺的形狀，可將四分之一的糯米換做吃飯的米。

The caozaiguo is much softer if its skin is made from glutinous rice only. So, it needs to be steamed over low heat (and avoid using an electrical pot), or the caozaiguo may collapse afterwards. If you prefer a chewier texture, you can replace 1/4 of the glutinous rice with normal rice.

(8)

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圖片來源（Source of the Picture）： instagram.com/maxmaind

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